Japan · city guide

Tokyo

Tokyo runs on quiet courtesy and unreasonably good coffee. Take the trains, look up at the alleyways, and let yourself be small for a while.

Where to stay

Neighbourhoods to know

Shimokitazawa for vintage shops and live houses. Yanaka for old-Tokyo wooden lanes and koi ponds. Nakameguro for cherry blossoms in April and patisseries the rest of the year.

How to move

Getting around

Get a Suica/Pasmo on your iPhone wallet — works on every train, vending machine and konbini. The last train is around midnight; check times before drinks. Uber is rare; LINE Taxi or just hailing a green-light cab works.

Where to eat

Eat

Ramen counter: Afuri or Mensho. Coffee: Glitch (Kanda), % Arabica (Daikanyama). Izakaya: Donjaca (Sangenjaya). Konbini at 2am — Lawson egg sando saves lives.

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Local customs

Don't tip; it confuses servers. Don't eat while walking on streets, except near festival stalls. Quiet on trains and bullet trains — phone calls are taboo.

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If something goes wrong

Police 110 · Ambulance/Fire 119. English helpline: +81 3 5774 0992 (Tokyo Metropolitan). Tourist info: +81 3 3201 3331 (24h).

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