Portugal · city guide

Lisbon

Lisbon is azulejos, hills, fado at midnight, and a tram that costs less than the postcard of it. Take it slow.

Where to stay

Neighbourhoods to know

Alfama for narrow lanes and live fado. Bairro Alto for late nights with a glass on the curb. LX Factory for design stores in a converted printing plant.

How to move

Getting around

Buy a Viva Viagem card at any metro station, top up €0.50 at a time for tram 28. Uber and Bolt both work — Bolt is usually cheaper. From the airport: red-line metro to Saldanha, change to yellow.

Where to eat

Eat

Pastel de nata at Manteigaria, not Belém (sorry). Bifanas: O Trevo (Praça Luís de Camões). Seafood lunch: Cervejaria Ramiro. Natural wine: A Maria (Anjos).

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Local customs

10% tip is generous; round-up is normal. Lunch is 13:00, dinner is 21:00 — don't show up at 19:30 expecting service. Greet shopkeepers with bom dia / boa tarde — it goes a long way.

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If something goes wrong

All emergency services 112. Tourism support line: 808 781 212. Pharmacies marked with green crosses; rotate a 24h pharmacy locally.

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