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ISTANBUL

Türkiye · city guide

Istanbul

A city of two continents, three thousand years, and a Bosphorus that swallows light at sunset. Stay long enough to learn the side streets — that's where Istanbul lives.

Where to stay

Neighbourhoods to know

Cihangir & Galata for designers and very good coffee. Kadıköy for the Asian-side market vibe and ferries home at midnight. Balat for technicolour Ottoman houses and antique-shop afternoons.

How to move

Getting around

Get an Istanbulkart at any kiosk; tap it on every metro, tram, ferry, funicular and bus. Take the ferry across the Bosphorus at least once at sunset — it costs less than a coffee. Uber doesn't exist; BiTaksi is the local equivalent.

Where to eat

Eat

Breakfast: Van Kahvaltı Evi (Cihangir). Mezze with raki: Çiya (Kadıköy). Late-night fish sandwich: Karaköy waterfront stalls. Coffee that ruined every other coffee for me: Kronotrop.

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Local customs

Local customs

Tipping ~10% in restaurants is appreciated, not assumed. Remove shoes before entering homes. Walking through prayer time at a mosque is fine — keep voices low and stay near the back.

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If something goes wrong

If something goes wrong

Police 155 · Ambulance 112 · Fire 110. Pharmacies are marked Eczane and rotate a 24h "nöbetçi" pharmacy in every district — addresses posted in every shop window. English-speaking GP: Acibadem Taksim, +90 212 444 5544.

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